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Everything You Need to Know About Asscher Cut Diamond Rings

The perfect blend of a princess cut and emerald cut, the Asscher cut diamond is an octagonal shaped with an elegant finish. When it is set in a 4 prong, it resembles a square cut but it has parallel facets from its corners. The brilliance hides away imperfections like lower color grades so it’s the perfect cut when you’re dealing with loose diamonds. Let’s find out more about this cut. 

Asscher Cut Diamonds – Why is this cut so popular?

Asscher cut diamonds mask inclusions owing to its internal structure(can have 49 to 65 facets), with an elegant appeal that resonates with Art Deco fashion. Featuring a classy appearance, this diamond cut can have different kinds of facet styles. The cut made history back in the 1920s Art Deco period but was introduced by dutch craftsman Joseph Asscher back in 1902. This cut has a bold appeal, returning on screen in the blockbuster series of the ‘Sex & the City’ that featured Kate Hudson. Despite its late appearance, it’s one of the most popular diamond cuts of the 21st century. 

While 58 facets was the norm with the Asscher cut, there have been modern variations like the Royal Asscher which focuses on quality cut diamonds. This cut has 78 facets, keeping the original design and depth intact. One great thing about the Asscher diamond cut is the carat weight. This weight distribution is higher at the center, rather than around the corners so you’re drawn towards the center more versus the sides. While a 1 carat round cut diamond measures 6.4mm, the asscher sizes up to 5.5mm approx. 

Things to Consider

If you’re looking for engagement rings, the Asscher cut diamond is a classy cut that has become a perennial choice for modern couples. Before you fall in love with an Assher diamond, look at the cut quality. This is distinctively different from the cut itself because it tells you how proportional the diamond is. While checking for a quality cut, you need to understand the diamond’s symmetry and how perfectly formed the facets are. 

Let’s talk about brilliance and clarity. 

If your diamond is proportioned well, it should have a radiant brilliance. But don’t expect this cut to have the same fire as that of a round cut diamond. Look for a stone that has between 60% to 65% depth and a table size that varies anywhere from 60% to 67%. Since it is a step cut, the brilliance and scintillation get reduced so you’ll notice some inclusions. You should consider a cut with clarity VS2 and avoid SI1 diamonds in this case. If you’re considering a large carat size like for e.g. >1.5 carat, then a VS1 clarity diamond will work best. 

In fact this cut is best for showcasing clarity of a stone since it has mesmerizing facets that focus on the center. Unlike the asscher cut, a princess cut diamond features elaborate faceting which magnifies the brilliance. One thing to note are the ‘windmills’ that you’ll find in asscher cut engagement rings. Most jewelers are clueless about this or may not share this information with you if the diamond’s poorly cut. Windmills are extensions that travel from the corners and towards the center, converging at a single point. 

The best way to know your diamond’s not cut properly is checking the direction of the windmills. If they converge before reaching the center, then the cut is poor quality and will have many inclusions. While most look similar, you’ll spot significant differences despite having a great rating for polish and symmetry. Avoid diamonds with low contrast patterning since this disrupts light transmission. Symmetry rating doesn’t indicate the optical precision of a diamond so it’s important to choose an expert for the job. 

What’s the best color for an asscher cut?

To pick a beautiful asscher diamond cut, you also need to be careful about the color grading. While the princess cut and the round cut do a brilliant job at masking color for a translucent effect, the asscher diamond is not quite so lucky. This step cut diamond has little brilliance and often appears bleached so it’s necessary to go for a H color grade. If you want to emphasize its octagonal shape, halo diamonds should be your first choice. 

But be sure to pick accents that don’t outshine the central stone especially in terms of color. Because of the high contrast, this diamond cut can appear yellow in a halo setting so it’s best to choose micro diamonds that have a color grading below H. You can also consider going for an I grading but avoid J color at all costs. This is an effective way to hide imperfections and throw light on your diamond’s sparkle the right way. 

What setting looks great on this cut?

The right diamond setting makes your ring all the more valuable – it doesn’t matter what the cut is. For asscher diamond cuts, the best setting is a solitaire although you can experiment with other variations too. A great way to deal with a poor cut is by picking a metal that compliments your diamond. You can choose from rose gold, white gold and yellow gold to find the perfect fit but for a solitaire, nothing looks grander than a platinum solitaire ring. 

Another great option is the halo setting so adding a few gems or micro diamonds around the cut is helpful if you want the extra sparkle. A halo of round brilliant stones, surrounding your centrestone on a platinum band creates a reflective background for more radiance. Some of the best side stones for asscher engagement rings could be baguettes, geometric diamonds or picturesque gemstones. 

Cost of Asscher Cut Engagement Rings

The asscher cut diamond is sleek and sophisticated, portraying a Victorian design that looks and feels good. When you’re first deciding on the cut, it’s best to consider a length to width ratio of 1 – 1.03 since it offers better proportions. You don’t want to lose money on a poorly shaped diamond. While the round cut is indefinitely pricey, the asscher cut is relatively cheaper if you’re going for a simple solitaire. 

For e.g. a romantic 1 carat asscher diamond with a 4 prong setting is stylish and chic with a price range that goes between $2000 to $3000 depending on clarity, color and quality of cut. Some of the best designs that feature G-H color range and VS2 clarity will have an average cost of $3600 – $4500 only without a ring setting. 

Another great example is of a 2.5 carat diamond that features G-H color, and VS2 clarity. A diamond like this that’s framed into a platinum solitaire ring will cost you $10k to $14k depending on the cut quality. This ring will be more expensive because it features a platinum setting, and a diamond that has a higher carat weight. 

Who Shouldn’t Buy Asscher Cut Diamond?

If you’re looking for transparency and brilliance, this cut probably isn’t a great choice. They are step cut diamonds that lay emphasis on clarity rather than the radiance. So the sparkle isn’t all that intense but they’re budget friendly. So when you want to add some glamor to your ring, you can always experiment with unique settings. While a 4 prong setting gives your stone a squarish look, a halo setting emphasizes more on the original shape. But a cluster setting will cost you more compared to a simple solitaire. 

Vintage Diamond Engagement Rings

When you’re not considering a fancy shape, an asscher or emerald cut will help you save more money. They are cheaper than oval, pear and marquise diamonds, and a lot cheaper than a brilliant round cut diamond. Since these cuts have depth at the center, they can help you save 25% of the cost despite having the same carat weight. Because of their striking and unconventional look, these cuts are popular among many who want minimalist stones – a decent compromise between quality and budget. 

You’ll also come across vintage designs that compliment the asscher cut especially since it has a subtle radiance. The soft reflection is a result of a two step crown, something quite common with this kind of cut. While many diamond experts believe this cut is a precursor to the modern emerald cut, its elegant shape blends beautifully with antique embellishments. If you’re interested in a vintage-inspired setting for your asscher ring, you’ll need to decide between a style from the Art Deco era or the Edwardian era. 

This type of cut looks great with gemstones so don’t feel shy to try a new look. Sapphires, rubies and emeralds are perfect side stones. When you’re picking a metal, always remember one thing – it’s easier to catch a hint of color on this cut so choose a metal color that compliments the stone. Pay close attention to your diamond’s color grade so you know what shades need to be camouflaged. Warm tones of rose gold and yellow hide imperfections from the cut while white and platinum look best for quality cut asscher diamonds.